Here are the required parts for fuse block assembly. I have cut the 4 terminals bussed together, to have 3 together, 1 seperate.

Using terminals for heavy gauge wire, crimp, solider on as shown.

The terminal installs into the relay OUTPUT leg, and 3 bussed fuse terminals installs into the block as shown

Relay terminal and the 3 bussed fuse terminals seated untill they click into place.

Next we install the relay INPUT terminal. The red wire extending UP out of the picture will go to BATTERY HOT 12v+. This also supplies constant power to the fuse on the end of the block.

The Gray 16 AWG wire gets a terminal and installed in the OUTPUT leg of the fuel pump relay. The other relay gets the PINK wire terminal installed in the relay coil location. This will be the KEY HOT power that activates the relay, powering up the three fuses bussed together.

We now have 4 fuse terminals left, 4 relay terminals left. You can start grouping the PINK wires together for the 3 key hot fuses.

Here I have installed all the PINK key hot wires into the

first three fuses. I have written down how I split up the circuits. I also included a wire for the check engine light (MIL)

Here I have added the ORANGE battery constant power to the PCM, and a jumper to the fuel pump relay INPUT terminal.

And finally, I have installed the GROUND for each relay coil, using a jumper from the first realy to the second. PCM supplies 12v+ to trip fuel pump relay. I also installed the Fuel Pump Relay control wire from the PCM into the relay coil termianl.

The coiled up wires, pink, orange, and black are for the diagnostic port and check engine light. I made these about 6' long to reach inside the vehicle.

Here are the parts required for OBD2 port assembly.

This picture is for a 1994 LT1 car, so we have a TAN wire at pin 9. OBD2 PCM's would have a purple wire at pin 2. You can also see some of the wires for external connection labeled.